A couple of days with Tamara who was visiting Ghana from Oxford to do some research for her PhD in post-colonial literature.
AZONTO IN THE PARK
After Tamara arrived with a bright smile to a warm welcome we felt a bit of sight-seeing was in order. So, we asked Eric to take us over to the Kumasi Cultural Center where we stumbled onto a post-Ramadan celebration involving loudspeakers and azonto dancing on the green. A couple of women took turns giving Tamara azonto dancing pointers to everyone’s delight. To see a video of this lively dance, please click here.
OBRUNI LOVE
Everywhere we went, we were welcomed by the locals. Obruni is the word for white person and we hear it often as people call out to us. They like the excuse to practice their English. The conversation usually goes like this, Someone calls out “Hello!” Hello, how are you? we answer. “Fine, and you?” Fine! “Where are you from?” I am from America. English is the national language of Ghana and most of the younger set speak it very well. These kids scrambled to get into a photo with the light-haired obrunis, one grey and one blonde.
ALL THINGS ARE POSSIBLE WITH ERIC
We decided to explore the Central Market on our second day. Eric picked us up and drove Tamara and Camille through the busy streets of Kumasi. At one point, Camille noticed we were following a taxi with the words “For nothing is impossible with God – Luke 1:37” which made us chuckle because we’d been thinking that nothing is impossible with Eric.
ERIC’S CHURCH
St. Peter’s Cathedral sits at the edge of the massive Central Market, and since Eric is one of their parishioners, he parked in the lot.
A MOMENT OF REPOSE BEFORE PLUNGING IN
Curious to see the inside of this beautiful Catholic church, we accepted Eric’s invitation and entered the peaceful sanctuary. Eric and Tamara are sitting behind a column with a sign saying “Monday born.” In Ghana, it is common to note which day you were born and receive a name which corresponds to that day. Camille, was born on a Friday so her Ghanaian name is Aphia. Tamara’s Ghanaian name is Ama, or Saturday born. Bob is known locally as Yaw Bob, or Thursday born Bob. Eric explained that the different days have different responsibilities within the church and so sit together with their day mates rather than with their families.
THE BELLY OF THE BEAST
Before we knew it we were immersed in the sights, sounds, smells and jostle of West Africa’s largest market. For more photos of Central Market, please see this essay: Central Market
BANKU
Tamara had banku on her list of things to experience while in Africa and as we returned to the church parking lot we saw a menu board with banku listed on it. So we went in and ordered a plate to share. Banku is a sticky dough, much like fufu, made from corn rather than cassava root and eaten with your hands. It was served with a tomato-based okra stew a bowl of water for each of us to wash our hands in before and after eating. Every table in Ghanaian restaurants comes equipped with a bottle of dish soap for hand washing. We ate it in the traditional manner, with our hands, dipping pieces of dough into the stew and putting it into our mouths. Camille made more of a mess with it than was required to the amusement of both Tamara and Eric.
WRITER AND COOK
We made a point of stopping at the Central Post Office to mail Tamara’s post cards and also a point of having fried plantain for dinner. Tamara’s help with dinner was greatly appreciated and she was very happy to take on the plantain frying. She mentioned it was something her mother remembers enjoying from her time in Africa.
Our time with Tamara was short and energizing. She helped with the shopping and cooking and bumped our dinner conversation into a new dimension. We will leave you with the reading list she shared with us, some of which we have already loaded onto our kindles.
TAMARA’S AFRICAN LITERATURE RECOMMENDATIONS
Beyond the Horizon by Amma Darko
Changes by Ama Ata Ardoo
Cocktail Hour Under the Tree of Forgetfulness by Alexandra Fuller
Don’t Let’s Go to the Dogs Tonight: An African Childhood by Alexandra Fuller
Efuru by Fora Nwapa
Fragments Ayi Kwei Amah
Joys of Motherhood by Bucli Erucheta
Search Sweet Country by B Kojo Laing
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[Latest] * [Troutsfarm] * [FS2BD Project Progress] * [Central Market] * [Local Color] * [Fun with Tamara] * [Around the House] * [Bosumtwi Revisited]
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