In which we enjoyed five nights inside the oldest section of Marrakech getting pampered at a great little hotel – December 2-6, 2013
JEMAA-EL-FNAA SQUARE
Our hotel was not far from the main square of the Medina which featured 50 cent glasses of fresh squeezed orange juice and an interesting mix of old and new, locals and tourists. The International Film Festival of Marrakech was in town with a schedule and large screen set up in the square.
GUYS WITH FUNNY HATS
It took us awhile to figure what was going on with the guys in these colorful hats but as far as we can tell, they were selling water. We looked it up and they are indeed, water bearers.
NARROW STREETS
We really enjoyed navigating around the Medina on foot through donkey-cart width streets flanked by three and four story ocher-walls.
DEATH TRENCH
Like we do, we tended to walk the same route to the same restaurants for dinner night after night. We nicknamed the street outside Un Dejeuner a Marrakech (with Bob on the left) the Death Trench because at one point it narrowed due to a sewer repair project and as a result became a bottleneck for moped traffic. One definitely needs to keep their wits about them when walking down these narrow, winding streets.
EVERYBODY KNOWS
Even the smallest of children know to plaster themselves against the wall when they hear the whine of an approaching moped.
SECOND FLOOR SUITE
After a full day of travel, we were shown to our cozy room on the second floor of the Riad Cherrata and thought we had arrived in heaven.
SUNRISE AT THE RIAD CHERRATA
After an incredibly refreshing sleep on the best mattress we had experienced in a year and a half or perhaps forever, we hiked up the stairs to the rooftop to greet the day. Camille is wearing a fair amount of clothing including the beautiful blue scarf Ingrid gave her and the Kente jacket she had made but she still looks cold. Obviously we were not in Ghana any more. Temperatures in Marrakech roamed in the 40 – 60 range whereas back in Kumasi they were stuck between 72 and 88.
Back downstairs we went and found a whole ‘nother level of spoiling awaiting us at breakfast. Breakfast at the Cherrata featured homemade jams, yogurt, breads and pancakes with freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee with heated milk.
OLD AND NEW
We were captivated by the donkey carts. Because the Medina was built long before motorized transport, these little critters represent the engines of the Medina, bringing things in and hauling stuff out. Yet, due to the invention of Donkey Diapers (see the awning-like sling hanging between donkey and cart?) there were no poo piles on the cobbled streets.
Ancient mosques may have dominated the skyline for centuries but the proliferation of satellite dishes are giving them a run for their money.
AN ARTIST’S WONDERLAND
Art was everywhere we looked, from the colorful caps for sale in the Souks (markets) to the Escher-esque stairs leading down to our room from the roof terrace.
ORNATE
Even the most run down walls showed evidence of beautiful craftsmanship.
R & R
This is what we came for and so we made full use of the afternoon sun, napping and writing Christmas postcards.
MEDINA STREET SCENES
As in Ghana, loudspeakers are important but we were happy to find Marrakech quite a bit quieter than Kumasi. We have no idea what the Suzuki truck with the Rhino is used for but had to take a picture for obvious reasons.
DELICIOUSNESS
Great food abounded! The Moroccan candy vendor invited Camille behind his counter and handed her a knife after we purchased sesame, nougat and pistachio bars to take home. And here a lunch of mint teas, some delicious Veggie Fingers (veggie egg rolls) with a fresh salad and a plate of crisps with tapenade from Un Dejeuner a Marrakech.
EARTH CAFE
There was even a Vegan restaurant in the Medina. Although we had heard about Bisada, a Moroccan fava bean soup from the chef on the train, we had yet to spot it on any menus. After a couple of days of vegetables and carbohydrates Camille was craving beans so we too a short walk over to the Earth Cafe for a plate of lentils and rice. Bob enjoyed a roasted pumpkin pastilla with sweet tea.
THE SPICE SQUARE
On our third day inside the Medina we ventured over to the Spice Square and enjoyed some mint tea with a view.
OUTSIDE THE MEDINA
Although we had ideas about seeing the Atlas Mountains and riding some camels, we were mainly content to stay close to our hotel and wander around the streets of Marrakech. For pictures of life outside the Medina, please go to Marrakech